How to Remove Exterior Vinyl Shutters That Are Installed With Shutter Loks

Maintenance on your home in inevitable, and upkeep can sometimes be a challenge. You often need to paint the exterior, paint the interior, fix the occasional broken faucet, replace the flowers that died on you, and reseed and fertilize the lawn just to name a few.

A common question people have is about decorative vinyl exterior shutters: "How do I remove exterior vinyl shutters that are installed with Shutter-Loks without breaking the exterior vinyl shutter?".

Shutter-Loks (sometimes spelled "shutter locks" and often referred to as easy-loks, shutter plugs, or plastic nails) are designed for a permanent shutter installation. However, it is still possible to remove decorative exterior vinyl shutters when doing routine maintenance (such as exterior painting or installing new siding) on your home. The bottom line is, you can remove the window shutters, but installing them again will require you to purchase new Shutter-Loks. Keep this in mind before you take them down, because Shutter-Loks generally cannot be found in local stores. Shuter-Loks can be purchased online though (see the link at the bottom of this article).

Do not attempt to pull the Shutter-Lok out of the wall, as you will most likely damage the surface of your exterior vinyl shutters. To remove the exterior decorative shutters, you will need the following:
A small chisel with a sharpened edge A hammer Silicone A diagonal cutter An electric drill with a 1/4" drill bit

Turn the chisel so the sharp edge is facing away from the surface of the house and slide it behind the shutter until it rests against the Shutter-Lok. Use a hammer to give the handle of the chisel a sharp tap and the chisel will cut through the Shutter-Lok.

After you have cut through all of the Shutter-Loks, take the shuttter down and set it carefully on the ground. Use a diagonal cutter to shear the remaining piece of the Shutter-Lok so it is flush with the surface. Next, drill out the Shutter-Lok using a 1/4" drill bit. Do not leave the Shutter-Lok inside of the wall because moisture can leak in and it will start to rot.

Now, if you plan to leave the window shutters off of your home, you should fill the hole in with caulking compound and smooth it off so it is level with the surface and you can then repaint to make the hole invisible.

If you plan to reinstall the vinyl exterior shutters after you paint your home, fill the hole partially with silicone to weatherproof it temporarily. After painting the exterior of the house, you can redrill the hole with a 1/4" drill bit to remove the silicone.

To reinstall, rest the exterior window shutter against the surface and align it with the holes, then press the Shutter-Loks into the holes part way to hold the vinyl shutter in place. Then use a hammer to very gently tap the Shutter-Lok until it is flush with the surface of the exterior window shutter. Do not keep tapping, as this will make the shutter start to dimple and you will need to purchase new Shutter-Loks and start over because there is no way to pull them back out. You should leave the Shutter-Loks just slightly loose to allow for expansion and contraction.

Inspecting the Exterior of the House and the Roof

Exterior Walls

After the structure and equipment of the basement have been examined thoroughly, the inspection of the exterior of the home is the next step in the inspection process.

If the walls are masonry, you should look for cracks or broken bricks or blocks, especially above the door and window openings. Look to see if the mortar joints require pointing. You also need to note whether or not there is any signs of efflorescence (moldy or white blotches or streaks) on the face of the wall, particularly below the window sills and near the down spouts. Sometimes these moldy areas can be brought about by the use of steam showers, an infrared sauna, or faulty shower doors.

The principal signs of defects or deterioration in stucco are cracks and the chipping off or falling out of any particles. The most likely places to observe these defects are over the doors and windows and near the ground. These surface marks are more readily seen after it has been raining and the dampness penetrates. Discoloration in the form of dust or rust streaks may appear below the window sills or other ledges.

If the house is of frame construction, examine the siding for loose or decayed boards. Look for blisters on painted surfaces and indications of cracking or of the paint peeling off in places. As the blisters are generally caused by moisture on the back of the film of paint, look for possible sources of such moisture, such as in a leaky roof, down spouts or water pipes.

Exterior Side of Windows

When examining the windows on the outside of the house, look to see if there is any flashing over the window caps so that it will turn the water. You should also inspect the flashing to make sure it is in good condition.

Other factors to examine on the exterior of the windows include:

o Look for holes or large cracks at window sills. They will appear if the inside stool, or ledge, is not well nailed down. They may exist where parting strips and pulley stiles meet the sill, or where the top sill joins the wood or brick subsill.

o If backhand molding is used around the top and sides of the outside casing, see that it is nailed tightly against the casing.

o Probe between the frame and the wall at each side of the window to see whether calking is needed to keep out dampness and cold, and to keep any steam from an indoor hot tub, steam shower, or sauna from affecting the walls and causing mold to grow.

o While looking over the windows examine the putty around the panes to find out whether it is firmly in place.

Roof, Flashing, and Gutters

Leaks in the roof are rarely detected from the outside. If there is no ceiling in the attic, holes in the roofing material are often readily visible from the inside. In this case they can be marked by pushing straws through the holes so that they protrude above the surface of the roof. If there is a ceiling in the attic, there may be stains on the plaster, which will indicate that there is a leak.

If the roof is made of slate, tile, wood shingles or composite shingles, you need to examine it closely to see if any of the pieces have been broken or have blown off. You also need to check to make sure that they are not loose. In the case of wood of composite shingles, check to make sure that they haven't warped or are partly decayed or disintegrated.

If the house is covered with metal roofing, look for holes, cracks, or open joints. See if paint or special coating has worn off due to any bathtubs, bathroom fixtures, or hot tubs emitting extra moisture. A similar examination should be made where roll roofing has been used.

Examine the flashing around the chimney and vent pipes as well as in the valleys of the roof to make sure there is no sign of rusting or of the vents being out of place. Leaves, rubbish and birds' nests in gutters can be problematic. They can clog up downspouts if the debris is not removed. Check the strainers over the mouths of the down spouts to see if they are clear. Take notice of the condition of the gutters and conductor pipes to determine if they should be replaced or just need a fresh coat of paint.

Skylights should also be examined for signs of leakage. The frame may need painting and the putty around the glass may need to be replaced. You should also check to make sure the flashing around the base of the frame is in good condition. Leaks from openings such as these can ruin carpets, bathroom fixtures, bathroom vanities, shower doors, and even flooring and tiling.

In looking over the chimney top, see whether all the bricks are in place and whether pointing is needed. If a cap is used, it should be securely cemented to the chimney. If there is no special chimney cap, see that mortar is spread over the top of the brickwork and sloped down from the flue opening to the outside edge of the chimney.